Costa Brava Tourist Guide

Posts Tagged ‘Catalonia’

CostaBravaTouristGuide.com — Bullfighting, the savage ’sport’ of animal torture, has been banned in Catalonia.

The vote comes after 180,000 people signed a petition saying it’s an outdated and brutal form of entertainment.

Supporters of bullfighting argue it’s one of the oldest traditions in the country and should be preserved.

Many people see the vote as something of a tit-for-tat in Catalonia’s ongoing fight for greater autonomy or even independence.

The local El Periódico newspaper reported that several nationalist deputies had decided to back the ban only after Spain’s constitutional court struck down parts of the region’s 2006 autonomy charter earlier this month, The Guardian writes.

At least 430,000 people, or 6% of all Catalans, protested on 10 July in Barcelona against the court’s decision, which declared Catalonia was not legally a nation.

Catalonia’s ban, which is the first in mainland Spain, comes into effect in January.

Its orange sands have witnessed delight and death. Generations of matadors strutted their way across Barcelona’s Monumental bullring, drawing roars of approval from the crowds as they tormented the hulking bulls with their scarlet capes before killing them with a sword-thrust between the shoulder blades.

But now bullfighting is to be banned from Barcelona and the rest of the north-eastern region of Catalonia after the local parliament today dealt a blow to Spain’s most emblematic pastime and unleashed a political battle over what some see as a threatened cultural treasure.

Deputies voted by 68 to 55 in favour of a people’s petition calling on the bullfight to be banished from a region that once played host to some of the world’s greatest fights. The last matador in Catalan history will sink his sword into the last half-tonne fighting bull at the end of next year, with the ban starting in 2012.

“It is the worst attack on culture since our transition to democracy,” said the Catalan poet Pere Gimferrer.

While some mourned the loss of a cultural jewel, the vote was hailed by animal rights campaigners worldwide. Ricky Gervais and Pamela Anderson were among the 140,000 who signed an international petition to the Catalan parliament.

“It sickens me to know that people are still paying money to see an animal suffering in such a horrific way,” Gervais said before the vote.

About 13,500 fighting bulls die in Spain every year – many in bullfights funded by local authorities who are estimated to pay out up to €550m (£457m) in subsidies. [1]

Horrendous Animal Abuse

Fans of the activity often wax eloquently about the ‘beauty’ of seeing the toro and toreo charge and counter-charge.

But while supporters pretend that bullfighting is more or less an equal fight, websites such as Stop Bullfighting, describe that the animal’s torture starts long before it enters the ring:

The bull is not an aggressive animal, and the reason he is angry and attempts to charge at the matador whilst in the bullring is mainly because he has been horrendously abused for the previous two days.

In fact, what spectators see is not a normal, healthy bull, but a weakened, half-blinded and mentally destroyed version, whose chances of harming his tormentors is virtually nil. The bull has wet newspapers stuffed into his ears; vaseline is rubbed into his eyes to blur his vision; cotton is stuffed up his nostrils to cut off his respiration and a needle is stuck into his genitals.

Also, a strong caustic solution is rubbed onto his legs which throws him off balance. This also keeps him from lying down on the ground. In addition to this, drugs are administered to pep him up or slow him down, and strong laxatives are added to his feed to further incapacitate him.

He is kept in a dark box for a couple of days before he faces the ring: the purpose of this is to disorientate him. When he is let out of the box, he runs desperately towards the light at the end of the tunnel. He thinks that at last his suffering is over and he is being set free — instead, he runs into the bullring to face his killers and a jeering mob. [2]

Boycott calls

Over the years many tourists have debate on whether or not to heed calls to boycott Spain as a tourist destination over the issue of bullfighting.

Such boycott efforts are likely to continue as long as bulls are still being tortured in much of Spain. This includes the so-called running of the bulls.

At the same time, aside from bullfighting strongholds such as Andalusia and Madrid support for the tradition has been waning throughout the country.

Earlier this year Antonio Moreno, president of Cacma, an animal rights association in Andalusia, told a British newspapers, “An overwhelming majority of Spaniards, 76 per cent according to Gallup surveys in 2009, are not in favor of bullfighting.”
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Footnotes

[1] Giles Tremlett, Catalonia votes to ban bullfighting, The Guardian, July 28, 2010
[2] Bullfighting: The Facts

CostaBravaTouristGuide.com — Few people realize it, but in the list of most-visited tourist destinations around the world Spain ranks in third place, behind France (1) and the USA (2), and ahead of China, Italy and the U.K. (4th, 5th and 6th place respectively)

In recent years the global economic downturn — combined with the rising popularity of cheaper vacation destinations like Turkey, Romania, Egypt and Morocco — resulted in a slight decline in Spain’s tourism sector.

Still, according to the World Tourism Organization Spain in 2009 maintained its position as the second biggest earner of income derived from tourism worldwide (with the USA in first place), and the first in Europe.

Tourism accounts for 11 per cent of Spain’s economy, and earlier this year the Spanish government has increased its tourism promotion budget by 6.4 per cent this year.

Tourism and the Euro

Britain has long been — and continues to be — Spain’s major source of tourists, with an annual 15-16 million British holiday makers crossing the country’s borders.

According to numbers provide by the World Tourism Organization (UNWTO), Germany ranks second with 10 million visitors, followed by France with 8-9 million tourists.

Italy is a distant fourth with 3.1 million vacationers, and the Netherlands is in fifth place — contributing 2.5 million visitors a year.

Visitors from Euro Zone countries will notice little difference in how far their money goes.

However, the weaker Euro makes vacationing in Spain (or any other Euro-bound country) attractive to those who earn their living in other currencies.

Thus while the value of the British Pound has fallen in relation to the Euro, Britons will continue to flock to Spain this year.

The stronger dollars may also contribute to a continued, steady increase in the number of Americans who visit Spain. From 2004 through 2008 their number rose from 8.9 million to 11.2 million tourists.

Quality of Life

Numerous studies show Spain is regarded as the country with the highest quality of life in Europe. But in recent years the real estate bust, combined with a high trade deficit and subsequent high inflation led to a severe economic downturn.

High levels of personal debt and a 20 percent unemployment rate continue to feed an extensive underground economy, with unreported sales and barters and unpaid taxes contributing to the ongoing crisis.

Financial experts are concerned that Spain’s central government has little control over the spending of the country’s regional governments.

Political power in Spain is divided by a central government and 17 Autonomous Communities.

These communities are self-governing, each through their own Generalitat — an autonomous political institution which has exclusive jurisdiction, both legislative and executive, over a wide range of subjects.

Since 1975 the central government in Madrid has handed back much responsibility for spending to the autonomous regions — but without also handing over the responsibility of raising the required taxes. As a result the central government now finds itself unable to gain support for unpopular spending cuts.

Tourism and the Debt Crisis

Tourists who visit Spain from a non-Euro country will marvel at how far their money goes in one of Europe’s top tourist destinations.

Even vacationers from within the Euro Zone will still find Spain a good bargain.

Returning visitors may notice that many of the smaller shops and restaurants have closed. In Blanes, for instance, many pricey fashion boutiques that targeted wealthy weekend visitors and vacation-home from Barcelona have not survived the downturn.

You may encounter slightly higher prices and/or smaller portions than you were used to. On the other hand, owners of restaurants, shops, hotels and others who rely on income from tourism are likely to go out of their way to offer competitive rates and service.

As always, spend your money wisely. Shop around, but don’t try and barter merchants into submission. Pay a fair price.

If you are used to staying in hotels now may be a good time to discover the many advantages of self-catering apartments.

Not only will you save a significant amount of money, but you’ll also gain a whole new set of experiences while living like a local.
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El Port de la Selva is a seaside village in the comarca of the Alt Empordà in Catalonia, Spain.

Overlooking a bay by the same name, the village is situated on the northern coast of the Cap de Creus and is an important fishing port and tourist center.

A Costa Brava photo souvenir book, available at shops in all the tourist districts up and down the coast says it’s the only natural harbor in this area,

for in this part of the coastline the mountain masses drop drown to the sea in sheer cliffs, majestically impressive and rugged, forming de Cap de Creus with the islands of Massa d’Oros and L’Encalladora before them.

Then there are Isla Culleró, Punta de Moli, Isla Poraló, Punta dels Farrallons, Penyas Roges, Cap Gros, Punta Blanca, Punta de la Creu and many other steep rocks and islets.

In the midst of all this ruggedness — remember, Costa Brava means ‘Wild Coast’ — El Port de la Selva is a haven of calm.

You guessed it: El Port de la Selva started life as a fishing village, but the fishersmen from this part of the coast have for centuries lived in the village of Selva de Mar — three kilometers inland — where they alternated fishing with farming activities. Port de la Selva developed from this village.

Fishing is still the village’s main source of income, but tourism also brings in a lot of money.

El Port de las Selva is popular with wealthy Barcelonians, and — owing in part to its proximity to the border — to visitors from France as well.

The population of about 1.000 people is swelled in the summer months by tourists, many of whom return so often than they have bought a house or apartment here.

Beaches

Platja Perabeua is a nice, pebble-stone beach in a natural setting of rocks and cliffs. The sand is clean and the blue water is crystal clear.

Some houses and tents are visible, but there are no amenities. Bring a picnic basket.

The beach can only be reached on foot and is somewhat of a climb down and later back up again. No lifeguards, no first aid post, and no toilets available.

The main beach of El Port de la Selva fronts the village. The clean beach consists of a mixture of fine sand and pebbles.

This beach includes a wide range of amenities and facilities. It is popular with wind surfers, and has on offer boat tours, jet skis, and para-sailing.

First aid post, toilets and showers are available.

This blue flag beach has plenty of nearby shops.

The water at the beach is, for the most part, shallow making this an ideal beach for children.

Things to do

Aside from the usual beach activities, hiking in the area around town is very popular.

There are numerous historical sites to see.

Hotels

• Hotels in and near El Port de la Selva

CostaBravaTouristGuide.com, Saturday, Nov. 28, 2009 — Twelve Catalan newspapers published a joint editorial last Thursday in which they defend the legality of Catalonia’s statute of autonomy.

The statute — meant to clarify the division of political powers between Spain and Catalonia — is under review by Spain’s constitutional court, which reportedly may weaken plans to enlarge the region’s self-government.

The newspapers, including the popular La Vanguardia en El Periódico, point out that both the Spanish and the Catalan parliament approved the statute, which enhanced Catalonia’s powers in taxation and judicial matters and provided the region with more control over airports, ports and immigration.

Catalonians voted for the statute in a 2006 referendum.

However, three years ago the conservative People’s Party (PP), Spain’s main opposition party which favors a stronger central state, lodged a complaint against the statute at the Constitutional Court.

El Pais last Sunday reported the court is leaning toward rejecting the term “nation” in the autonomy statute. In addition it would cancel or alter many of the statute’s 126 articles, including Catalonia’s increased promotion of the Catalan language.

Autonomous Communities

Political power in Spain is divided by a central government and 17 Autonomous Communities, including Catalonia, which is home to 7 million of Spain’s 46 million people.

These communities are self-governing, each through their own Generalitat — an autonomous political institution which has exclusive jurisdiction, both legislative and executive, over a wide range of subjects.

The Dignity of Catalonia

The court’s decision could set the stage for a major political crisis just before Madrid takes over the rotating presidency of the European Union during the first half of 2010.

The joint editorial, published under the title, “The Dignity of Catalonia,” claims the court’s plans threaten “the democratic maturity of a pluralistic Spain,” and warns that Catalans would take to streets en masse over the court’s decision.

The newspapers were supported by Catalan radio and TV stations, political parties, unions and civic associations.

Separatism

Analysts believe the row plays into the hands of Catalan Separatism, a political movement that promotes complete independence from Spain, is on the rise.

On December 13 more than 150 Catalan municipalities are holding symbolic, unofficial referendums on independence.
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Originally Llançà was divided between the original tenth-century settlement — built inland as a defense against pirates — and the harbor of Llançà.

However, the tourist boom brought lots of urban growth, and the village and harbor soon joined together to create one resort.

By all accounts this is still a relatively quiet town when compared with larger destinations such as Lloret de Mar or Playa D’Aro.

Yet during the summer months both the interior village, Llançà Vila, and the Puerto de Llançà are home to countless foreigners.

As with so many seaside resorts along the Costa Brava, Llançà originated as a fishing village.

The port area is flanked by Passeig Marítim — a modern boulevard that stretches along the beach, Platja del Port — and Carrer Castellar, where you’ll find many shops and restaurants.

The small Vila is centered around the Plaza Mayor, which is shaded by a huge plane tree — named, as in Colera, Arbre de Libertat (Tree of Liberty). The tree was planted in 1870 to commemorate freedom from the French.

The Beaches of Llançà

The coastline between Llançà and El Port de la Selva, a little further north, is not as rugged as in other places along the Costa Brava — but it is irregular and varied enough to awe tourists and locals alike with the same natural beauty that has drawn visitors for decades.

Llançà itself is blessed with an excellent range of small and quiet beaches and coves.

Watersports

Facts about Llançà

• Almost 5,000 people live yearround in the village of Llançà, which covers 28.625 km²

To be continued…

Catalonia, the English term for the Catalan Catalunya, is an Autonomous Community (Comunidad Autónoma) in Northeast Spain.

Its 32.000 km² is home to nearly 7.5 million people, and ranges from the sandy beaches via the wild cliffs of the Costa Brava to the slopes of the Pyrenees in the North.

Barcelona, Catalonia’s capital, is considered one of Europe’s most beautiful cities.

The entire region attracts millions of tourists each year.

Political power in Spain is divided by a central government and 17 Autonomous Communities. “The autonomous communities have wide legislative and executive autonomy, with their own parliaments and regional governments,” Wikipedia writes, noting that these “regional governments are responsible for schools, universities, health, social services, culture, urban and rural development and, in some places, policing.”

In many ways, Catalonia is a country within its own rights, and there are plenty of Catalans who either want more autonomy or even outright independence from Spain.

See Also:
• Generalitat de Catalunya (Government of Catalonia) – Wikipedia
• Autonomous Communities of Spain – Wikipedia

Costa Brava Tourist Guide

This website, the Costa Brava Tourist Guide, will focus primarily on the seaside resorts along Catalonia’s Costa Brava, or Wild Coast.

Along the way we hope to share with you concise information about Catalonia — anything from its customs to its cuisine, and from its history and art to its folklore and language.

By the way, this is a labor of love, and we’ve only just started. If you’re looking for information that’s missing right now, just stay tuned and visit us again in a little while. New articles will be added on a regular basis, and current articles will be edited and updated as well.

CostaBravaTouristGuide.com — Some 7 km north of Llançá is the small village of Colera, in the Catalan county of Alt Empordà.

It is listed in some guidebooks as San Miguel de Colera. That was the official name given when, in July 1770, King Charles III authorized the establishment of the village.

Nowadays San Miguel refers to the residential area. Too, San Miguel is the town’s patron saint.

Colera is said to come from the Latin word for ‘hill,’ refering to the foothills of the Albera mountain range that provides a magnificent decor to the West.

About 600 people live here (2008 figures) spread out over 24 square kilometers.

Tourism is Colera’s main industry, but even during high season (August) the place remains uncrowded.

• Colera, which can be reached by train from Figueres, Girona, Llançá and Portbou, is built along a riverbed.

• Colera is located 74 km from Girona, and 28 km from Figueras.

• The village is serviced by the N-260 road, which is in the process of being upgraded to the A-26 Autovia.

Uncrowded Village

Perhaps due to its tiny size the tourist trappings seen elsewhere along the Costa Brava have largely bypassed this village.

With few typical tourist amenities, Colera is a great place to escape the crowds.

The center of Colera, the PlaçPi i Margall — referred to by locals simply as ‘Plaza Mayor’ — is about 200 meters from the beach.

It features a pair of outdoor cafés shaded by the Arbe de Libertat (Liberty Tree) — a banana tree planted at the town’s centennial in 1898.

Here is where you’ll also find the townhall, as well as Colera’s two oldest shops.

There are a few restaurants and simple bars. Colera also has a three simple hotels and some holiday apartments, as well as a camping site.

Uncrowded Beaches

Colera has two large, pebbled beaches set in a horsehoe-shaped by with a small fishing harbor at one end.

Even during the height of the summer season there’s plenty of space at the beach.

• Playa de Garbet: 650 meters long and 140 meters wide. Consists of large and small pebbles. Showers and drinking water available.

• Playa d’en Goixa: This beach, near the train station, consists of large river pebbles. Showers and drinking water available, as well as access for the disabled.

• Punta d’Es Borro: At a short distance from town this isolated beach, 100 meters long and 7 meters wide, is popular with nudists. There’s a 200 meter walk from a car park. In recent years some houses have been built nearby.

Most other beaches in the area can be reached by car or on foot, while some are accessible only by boat — and thus a bit more private.

A road from the train station leads to the small bay of Calle Rovellada.

The more adventurous continue on to windblown Punta de L’Escala, where the sure-footed take a public footpath of sorts to the rocks below.

Attractions

• The town’s large, quiet beaches — as well as the many smaller beaches.

• The tiny tourist office provides information about a number of walking routes in the area, as well as The Albera nature preserve.

• Art Parc at Playa d’en Goix, in front of the train station, consists of a collection of sculptures by Joan Padern.

• Castle Mills, the ruins of a castle that dates to the Middle Ages, and located near the abandoned village of Mills (8 houses).

• Built in the eleventh century, the chapel Ermita de San Miguel de Colera is worth a visit.

Feasts & Festivals

• Mel Novella: during the weekend of San Juan (June 24), Colera hosts a Mel Novella (New Honey) market with more than 30 stands in the center of town.

• San Miguel: the ‘Festa Major’, on September 29, is in honor of the town’s patron saint.

Boating

• Club Nàutic Sant Miquel de Colera can be contacted if you wish to moore your boat in the sports marina: Badia de Colera, s/n. 17496 Colera, Girona. Tel : (+34) 972 38 90 95 Fax: (+34) 972 387 001.

Diving

• Diving Center Colera is an official Catalonian Government centre; it is a Beuchat diving centre and Naui school, Cmas, EDA. It is located at the San Miguel Camping (below).

The center’s boats take divers to one of two diving areas: the Banyuls-Cerbère reserve, off the coast of France, and Cap de Creus — between El Port de La Selva and Cadaqués. Both diving spots are reserves, said to have kept their wild and natural nature.

The diving school offers courses of level I-II-III ACUC, daily outings and special group packs.

Camping

• El Càmping San Miguel A tranquil, family-orientated campsite for tents, caravans and vans. Also offers bungalows.

Colera City Hall

Colera’s official website: Ajuntament de Colera (Catalan)

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CostaBravaTouristGuide.com — At the foot of the Pyrenees, hugging the dividing line between France and Spain, lies the small village of Portbou (1300+ inhabitants).

It is the last village of the Costa Brava, which starts some 100 kilometers down the coast at Blanes.

Portbou — which some guidebooks erroneously refer to as ‘Port Bou’ — is situated in the most mountainous area of the Costa Brava, and the closely-packed houses slope steeply up the valley from the waterfront.

Once one of those proverbial ’sleepy’ fishing villages, PortBou was transformed with the opening of an international railway station in 1878. It soon developed into a busy transport hub.

The train tunnel was joined by a road across the border, to the French port of Cerbère.

The peaceful bay has been called a ‘natural amphitheater.’ It shelters an uncrowded, and stunningly beautiful pebbled beach. Uncrowded because though Portbou has some hotels, a tourist office and other tourist facilities it is not (yet) a major tourist destination.

Yet, used to international travelers, Portbou is a hospitable village and an ideal place to spend a relaxing vacation — far away from the tourist trappings of the larger Costa Brava resorts further south.

Beaches

The main beach along the promenade is never crowded, even during the summer months. At times the shoreline is lined with fishing sloops.

There are even less crowded beaches up and down the coast, and some people half-seriously claim there’s a secluded beach or cove for everyone. Most can reached more or less easily on foot, while others are best approached by boat.

At the north of the main beach a footpath leads to Tres Platgetes — three small, white sand beaches. Further north the path, hugging the rocky shoreline, brings you to Platja del Pi, a small beach popular with nude bathers.

The water here is crystal clear and, among other things, perfectly suited to scuba diving.

Cala Bramat is also popular with nudists.

There’s a small harbor with fishing boats and small yachts.

Walther Benjamin

The German Jewish philosopher Walther Benjamin committed suicide in a Portbou hotel in 1940 rather than to be handed over to the Gestapo.

A memorial to him — created by Israeli sculptor Dani Karavan — overlooks the bay from its southern cliff.

It carries an inscription by Benjamin in five languages: “It is more arduous to honour the memory of the nameless than that of the renowned. Historical construction is devoted to the memory of the nameless.”
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