Cadaqués: peaceful, charming, bohemian-chic

One of the prettiest holiday beach resorts at the Costa Brava

CostaBravaTouristGuide.com — The beautiful fishing village of Cadaqués is sometimes referred to as an island on the coast. That is because it is relatively protected from mass tourism by one long two-lane road that winds through the mountains of Cap de Creus.

The town is home to fewer than 3.000 people, but during the peak summer tourist season more than 30.000 people visit the place.

Nestled between the capes Norfeu and Creus and flanked by mountains — including El Pení (605m) — the white village of Cadaqués is particularly beautiful to see.

What we love about Cadaqués

We’ll come right out and say it: We have seen many towns and villages on the Costa Brava, but Cadaqués is our absolute favorite.

The place has a distinct bohemian chic vibe about it. It was of course long known as a meeting place for artists, intellectuals and free spirits.

Artists such as Picasso, Mark Chagall, Marcel Duchamp, Henry Matisse, Maurice Boitel and Mick Jagger spent time in Cadaqués. Over the years, the village has attracted a predominantly upmarket clientele. This has cemented the town’s reputation as an upmarket resort more suited to artistically inclined adults than families looking for a “typical” beach vacation.

The days when Cadaqués was considered the artist capital of Spain are long gone, but its charm remains. If you had a penny for every person who has said after visiting Cadaqués that they would like to sell everything just to move here, you would be very rich.

The special thing about this village is that it does not feel like that, even though you know there are lots of fellow tourists here.

It’s hard to put your finger on it, but somehow this place manages to retain that tranquil, ‘nothing-ever-happens-here” feeling. It’s very relaxing indeed.

House of Salvador Dalí

Nowadays many day-trippers come specifically to see the house of Salvador Dalí, who in 1930 settled in the tiny nearby village of Portlligat¹. His house — or, rather, series of interconnected houses — has been turned into a museum: Casa-Museo Salvador Dalí. Dalí stayed in Portlligat until 1982 when, upon the death of his wife Gala, he took up residence at the castle he built for her in Púbol.

Note that if you plan on visiting the museum, you must always make reservations. Groups of up to eight visitors enter the museum at ten-minute intervals, and are guided through the labyrinthine structures.

– Text continues below ticket information –

Tip: Also check out the Dalí Triangle Pass, which gives you access to the Dalí House Museum in Portlligat, The Dalí Theater-Museum in Figueras, and the Gala Dalí Castle in Púbol.

The 40-50 minute visit to Salvador Dalí’s house is virtually mandatory for any self-respecting Dalí fan, and is well worth the trip. Spent the rest of your time before or after the museum visit exploring Cadaqués.

Alternatively, if you come with private transportation, enjoy the fine-gravel beach that overlooks the beautiful bay.

Cadaqués: well-preserved, authentic Catalan village

One thing that sets Cadaqués apart from so many other towns and villages along the Costa Brava is that its natural setting — combined with zoning rules and regulations — have prevented unchecked growth.

With its labyrinth of cobblestoned streets and its white chalked houses the village, overlooked by the sixteenth-century Eglésia de Santa Maria, reminds many travelers of Ibiza‘s picturesque villages. It’s easy to see why many Catalans consider Cadaqués to be the ‘Pearl of the Costa Brava.’

If you come by car, park at the car park at the entrance of the village. Then make your way up to the Barri Vell (Old Town) — a maze of steep, narrow streets paved with rustic stones and dotted with benches and flower pots.

Incidentally: Cadaqués is made for pedestrians. Almost no place in the inner city can be reached by car. Leave your car at one of the big parking lots at the outskirts of the city.

Bay of Cadaqués

Approaching by sea from the north, the Bay of Cadaqués spans from Punta de Cala to Punta de S’Oliguera. Along the way there are lots of indentations in the foothills of the Cap de Creus, most with delightful small beaches.

Many of those beaches can be reached on foot; others only by boat.

Tip: About ¾ of the way up on the walk along the bay is Platja del Ros. This is a sandy beach is a cove that provides a beautiful view of the old town. The warm water is shallow, with a bottom of smooth (slippery) rocks.

The water of the bay is crystal clear, and snorkling and diving are popular pastimes here.

That said, while the water quality is always good to very good, most beaches are small — and consist mostly of pebbles, rocks, and/or course sand. On your walk along the bay you’ll notice that many locals make use of even the smallest, postage-sized spots.

Even Platja Gran, Platja Gran i Esportal, Platja Port d’Alguer, Platje Es Pianc, Platja des Llané Gran, and Platja Ses Oliveres — the primary beaches of Cadaqués — consists mostly of large pebbles and coarse sand. And Es Pianc, the small urban beach at the center of town, sports only gravel and dark sand.

In general these beaches do not attract families with small children, and overall you’ll find the beaches here less crowded than elsewhere along the coast.

Mind you, as elsewhere in Spain, topless sunbathing is quite common here.

• See our general information about Costa Brava Beaches

Hotels in Cadaqués

You can easily spend and entire vacation in Cadaqués and not get bored. But this is also a perfect place to visit for a few days.

If you want to relax, explore the village, visit Dali’s house (count on a 20-minute walk from the center of Cadaqués to Port Lligat, plus at least 2 hours to see the house, waiting time included), and dine at a few fine restaurants, give yourself at least two nights here.

How to get to Cadaqués

By Car

Due to the long, winding mountain road the 40 km trip by car from Figueres takes up to one hour. From Roses: 17 km, about 25 minutes. From El Port de la Selva: 13 km, about 15 minutes.

It’s a 2½ hour drive from Barcelona.

By bus or taxi

If you arrive at the Barcelona or Girona airport take the train to Figueres and get a taxi from there. The taxi should cost just shy of €50.

There is a bus service as well, with buses leaving infrequently.

If you arranged for a hotel, the hotel may provide a shuttle bus service.

Cadaqués Tourist Office

The tourist office is located at Carrer Cotxe 2-A, and there also is an information centre is at the entrance to the town, in Av Caritat Serinyana.

Cadaqués Tips for Visitors

• Walking / Mobility
  Within Cadaqués pretty much everything is in walking distance, but some streets and alleys are quite steep. If you want to venture a little further we recommend that you rent a scooter. People with a mobility problem can also rent mobility scooters.
  

• Day Visitors
  If you plan on visiting Cadaqués on a day trip do whatever you have to do to arrive as early as possible. Plan to have breakfast, lunch and dinner in town. If at all possible, try to make dinner reservations ahead of time — either before your day trip or as soon as you see a place where you would like to dine that evening.

• Dining
  We have had the distinct pleasure of sampling several of the town’s restaurants, and are convinced that they serve some of the best food we’ve ever tasted anywhere along the Costa Brava.

  
  

  We’re especially impressed with the friendly service we encounter everywhere.

  
  

1. Portlligat is sometimes written as Port Lligat ↩︎